Juniskär is a gem of a climbing destination. Boulders strewn across a granite plateau looking out across a calm sea. A light breeze and the only other souls in sight are the sailors out in the distance.
After visiting the Gransfor Bruk factory we travelled just 45minutes further north to seek out this crag. Parking was easy amongst the well-spaced houses on the outskirts of a small town and after a short walk we came across the first block hidden in the woods. ‘The Tube’ problems looked great, but this is where the ants had decided to hang out away from the sea in the humidity of the trees, the ants are worse than the humidity so we grabbed our bags and carried on. A very good decision it turned out.
Within moments we were right at the sea, stood looking out at the small waves lapping the rocks with a warm up block right next to us. The warm up block is a great little roof with two f5’s and two f6A’s, and with safe flat landings -bonus.
A quick trip to the block round the corner and on to a harder climb for Lee. Another f6C in the bag, a tough one with a powerful start into some slopey holds – I could only just get off the ground! I did however manage to accidently do a stand-start to a f7b after misreading the topo, oops. Worth doing tho, a tricky rockover to a mantle.
Next was a rising traverse, Lee’s turn to not read the topo right and struggle with trying to get up between two problems. I actually managed to do the start of this first go and flailed on the top. After I showed Lee the correct start position he did it without trouble.
Lee had his sights set on a f7b next, with a sketchy landing and a fridge hugging start. After working out all the moves and figuring a good sequence out he had a few good goes at it. Unfortunately, today was not the day the heat and lack of skin meant it was not to be, maybe one for next time. Next up I’d spotted an enticing looking block with a crimpy vertical wall, at f6C it’s on the limit of what I can do, but I won’t know until I try.
Now I’m not exaggerating here if I say the attempts were well into the late 30’s or early 40’s. It took so long to get the right start foothold, then to realise I actually needed to start with a lower hand on the right to get the static move to the next hold. But I won’t bore you with all the details. All you need to know is I tried hard and eventually got to the top.
And with that, we both went for a dip in the sea to cool off, and clean off- it’s been a while since we were at a campsite.